Split Pea Seduction offers all kinds of combinations (whole crostatas or halves with soup or salad), nicely packed to go, or you can consume them on the spot, on 14 white saddle-shaped stools pulled up to a couple of ledges. Above the longer one hang five arty framed photos of kitchen subjects – spices, a pastry cutter, an oven thermometer, a stock pot, and, oops, a chain saw. Atop the glass-fronted case displaying the long crostatas are jars full of such just-baked treats as blueberry scones, small buttermilk cakes topped with whipped cream and chopped plums, and cookies, including, perhaps, a fragrant anise butter cookie, a dense chocolate chew, or an old-fashioned coconut thumbprint filled with housemade jam.

You can order off the mirror at Brenda's.
Jen Siska
You can order off the mirror at Brenda's.

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Brenda's French Soul Food, 652 Polk (at Eddy), 345-8100, www.frenchsoulfood.com. Open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Closed Sunday. Reservations not accepted. Not wheelchair accessible. Parking: Street, difficult. Muni: 16 AX, 16 BX, 19, 31. Noise level: Low to moderate.

Split Pea Seduction, 138 Sixth St. (at Minna), 551-2223, www.splitpeaseduction.com. Open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Closed Saturday and Sunday. Reservations not accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Parking: Street, difficult. Muni: 14, 14 L, 14 X. Noise level: Low.

Brenda's French Soul Food

Grillades and grits $9.75

Black-eyed peas and andouille sausage $10

Flight of beignets $8

Split Pea Seduction

Whole crostata $6.75

Half crostata $3.75

Coconut thumbprint cookie $1.25

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Split Pea Seduction's seductions are located a long block and seemingly worlds away from such upscale haunts as the Westfield San Francisco Centre. Many of the passersby seem to be looking for a needle exchange rather than a soft-cooked egg, roast tropea (sweet purple) onions, and herbed havarti crostata. But hey, there goes the neighborhood.

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