What Comes Between

Miles away, both in distance and philosophy, are the paninis turned out in the chic, retro Avedano's Holly Park Market, a recent resurrection of a longtime Bernal Heights landmark. Restaurateur Tia Harrison, co-owner of Pacific Heights' Sociale, and friends Melanie Eisemann and Angela Wilson took over the old Cicero's Meats (in a building that has been in the food business for more than a century) and turned it into a combination butcher shop, green market, specialty-foods purveyor, and, yes, griller of paninis to order. The long butcher's case is full of grass-fed beef and lamb, free-range fowl, and sustainably caught fish and shellfish. Shelves contain an enticing, carefully curated array of olive oil, vinegars, jams, imported candies and cookies, spices, and such delicacies as tiny cans of Italian tuna in oil. Imported butter and organic milk and cream are also on offer alongside a line of fresh organic baby-food purées.

There's no table seating, but a rotating menu of a half-dozen panini might include housemade olive-oil-poached tuna with tapenade and pea shoots; roast beef with horseradish aioli and caramelized onions; or grilled chicken with pasilla peppers and jack cheese. The panini press turns out a slightly thin, dense, ridged sandwich that, again, might suffice for two light eaters, as did a recent masterpiece of excellent salty prosciutto, arugula, and provolone. Sides (available all day) include a layered spinach and potato gratin, or roasted Brussels spouts. If you arrive after 4 p.m., you can also pick up one of the monthly-changing daily hot specials (though Monday's lasagna bolognese and Friday's fried organic chicken are so popular that they seem to be on permanent duty). The specials come with a salad of fresh mixed greens. Rotisserie chickens are available every day.

The contents of the drinks fridges at these three places epitomize their owners' diverse philosophies: the recognizably homey Frappuccinos, Snapples, Cokes, and juices at Petite Deli; the hip Izze and Jones specialty sodas alongside organic energy drinks at Ike's; and the esoteric offerings of regional root beer, cream soda, and pricey imported Italian sodas in seductive shapely bottles at Avedano's. But all three offer quality sandwiches at popular prices to their eager clienteles.