A Trip to Here

Daily specials might include a whole grilled sea bass, served with roasted potatoes and sautéed greens ($27, and again, enough for two, especially if you also split a starter or a side dish). We've had creamier versions of New England clam chowder than the heavily potatoed version served here; next time we'd try the Portuguese red chowder, with fresh linguiça sausage, smoked paprika, cilantro, and watercress in addition to the clams (both $4 a cup, $7 a bowl). Regulars swear by the fish (fried in Anchor Steam batter) and chips, the pasta con vongole (clams in white wine sauce), and the fish taco plate. Specials might include an earthy, bright-green fava bean soup, or an unusual and delicious hamachi crudo with fresh green peas and wasabi-horseradish cream.

Non-fish-eaters will have to be contented with a big juicy grilled burger or a fancy PB&J with natural peanut butter and organic jelly on pain de mie, which is the fancy French way to say white bread. The brief wine and beer list is well chosen. Relax and linger over excellent coffee and a simple dessert: a rootbeer float, house-baked cookies, carrot cake, or espresso poured over vanilla ice cream.

Fish is ideal for a long, lazy, indulgent sunny lunch, or an early dinner: it closes at 8:30, but it gets very chilly by the water after dusk. It isn't very far from the city at all, but you feel like you could be in another country. Which is, after all, the point.