A More Refined Fire

Of course, all of this creates quite a thirst, and Namu's drink menu doesn't disappoint. It's a whirlwind tour of more than 30 sakes, sojus, and wines by the glass with a signature selection of fresh fruit- and tea-infused soju. The mango-strawberry infusion ($7) proved clean and understated, with just a hint of fruity acid.

The tartare ($11) — bigeye tuna sashimi this evening — was presented as a neat island, minced and ruddy pink, carpeted on top with ribboned chives, daikon, and a sprinkling of crunchy baby rice crackers (bubu arare). The whole affair was centered in a puddle of wasabi oil ponzu sauce spiked with Korean chile flakes. Crunchy baby romaine hearts linger nearby, perfect for scooping up a dose of the mixture. Once again chef Lee's steady hand was on full display, able to stoke the heat with wasabi and chile while simultaneously dousing it with the tart and soy of ponzu without ever losing the whiff of the tuna's ocean breeze.

For all the light and airy acrobatics with fish and fryer, no Korean menu should stray far from the scent of charring meat and live fire, long the linchpin of Korean barbecue joints. In the "grilled à la carte" section, Namu has fared well in preserving the heart of those flavors without sacrificing too much in the process of refinement. Alas, there is no tableside grill, and no plates piled high with marbled cuts of raw beef and pork. On the plus side, you won't spend the rest of the night smelling like a campfire. It's a fair trade.

The Niman Ranch Kobe skirt steak ($19) clung tantalizingly close to its roots, grilled medium rare and marinated in a familiar Korean kalbi sauce with soy, garlic, green onion, sesame, and sugar. A slice-it-yourself slab would be preferable to the carved presentation. But that's a quickly forgotten trifle once the mingling flavors activate your primal carnivorous impulse and all brain function is rendered useless, save for wondering when the next bite or shot of soju from Namu's brilliant arsenal will arrive.

Welcome to upscale Korean food. It's nice to have you.