Paul Trapani
Papa Gianni, Caffe Trieste's founder, croons an Italian ballad while his son, Fabio, plays the accordion.
Paul Trapani
Papa Gianni, Caffe Trieste's founder, croons an Italian ballad while his son, Fabio, plays the accordion.

Artist and author Patricia Wakida is working on a biography of Shigeyoshi Murao, known as Shig, who managed City Lights Books in the 1950s and 1960s. She says Papa Gianni is a living link to San Francisco's Italian heritage, and Caffe Trieste is a passageway to the city's rich literary history. "As someone who is interested in history, I wish that these places would never change," she says. "But without the spirit of Papa Gianni, you can't, in a real way, manufacture his Caffe Trieste."

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