Virginity Lost at Gary Danko

But spirits and appetite lifted when the lush cheese cart was rolled over to the table. Again a patient server was happy to explain the origins and styles of each of the more than 20 cheeses on offer, from as near as Napa or as far away as Tasmania. We shared two cheese plates, four cheese each, simply served with grapes and some slices of nut bread.

My favorite dessert was the bluntly named Non-Cholesterol Grand Marnier soufflé, a perfumed cloud, perfect after such an indulgent meal. But I also enjoyed a perfect chocolate soufflé, heavy on the cholesterol; a rhubarb-strawberry tart served with white chocolate sauce, almond ice cream, and a long, thin tuile; and a rich trio of crème brûlées (espresso-caramel, chocolate, and vanilla), garnished with a macaroon, a bonbon, and biscotti. And we were given not only an assortment of tiny sweets (a miniature macaroon, lemon tart, Opéra cake, pineapple upside-down cake, and more) but Danko's signature out-the-door gift: an exquisitely wrapped breakfast pastry, tonight a banana bread enriched with cream cheese.

My, what a large cheese plate you have.
Jen Siska
My, what a large cheese plate you have.

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Gary Danko

800 N. Point
San Francisco, CA 94109

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: Nob Hill/ Russian Hill/ Fisherman's Wharf

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749-2060, www.garydanko.com. Open for dinner nightly 5:30-10 p.m. Reservations accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Parking: valet, $11. Muni: 10, 20, 30, 47. Noise level: moderate.
800 North Point (at Hyde)

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Late spring, on an unseasonably hot day, turned out to be the perfect time to lose my Gary Danko virginity. And $83 each seemed rather a bargain for the unhurried three hours and the marvelous meal we'd shared there.

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