Il Cane Rosso: Proof that locally sourced eating hasn't gone too far

Comments (0) By John Birdsall Wednesday, Dec 16 2009

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Lara Hata

Nothing like braising for 12 hours to bring out the tenderness.

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Il Cane Rosso

One Ferry Building
San Francisco, CA 94111

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Embarcadero

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Il Cane Rosso
391-7599, www.canerossosf.com. Breakfast 8-11 a.m. Sat., 10 a.m.-noon Sun.; lunch 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Mon.-Sat., noon-5 p.m. Sun.; dinner 5-8 p.m. nightly. No reservations. Wheelchair accessible. Parking: valet, as well as validation at nearby lots. Muni: 2, 14, 21, 66, 71, F, J, K, L, M, N. Noise level:high.

One Ferry Building (Market and Embarcadero), #41

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But as lovely as the food is, the setting for supper is astonishingly stark: a hallway in the Ferry Building, remember, where, once the sun goes down, the gray light of ceiling fluorescents casts a pall over even the prettiest dish. It's drafty, so you leave your coat on. Tourists shamble by. Cooks from nearby restaurants hit the men's room just opposite.

It is, in short, an extreme place, especially for food that's such a lush exemplar of local style. Figs on a plate? Please. The dinners at Il Cane Rosso are all about serving up quietly complex dishes that express the flavor of here, in a place than can make you wish you were anywhere but there.