The Überhipster
Zilla-style golden dog ($9)
4505 Meats stand, Ferry Plaza farmers' market (Market and Embarcadero), Tuesday and Saturday, www.4505meats.com
At 4505 Meats' market stalls, you can order Ryan Farr's housemade hot dogs by themselves or "zilla style," spritzed with $$$ teriyaki-esque sauce, covered over in scallions and kimchi made by its stand-neighbor Namu, and finished off with crunchy curls of chicharrones. But the dogzilla's cool comes across as forced, a little too preposterous to eat. The problem, I decided, was the pork rinds, the culinary equivalent of lime-green sunglasses. Once I picked off the chicharrones as an appetizer — no chore, that — the dog turned out to be subtly spiced and smoked. On first bite, the creamy texture of the stuffing (chicken, pork, and beef) initially came off as a flaw, but on second bite it turned out to be the distinctive element that made me stop comparing the reworked dog to a Vienna Beef. It achieved the rare feat of tasting simultaneously like a real frankfurter and real meat. And call me a hipster, but kimchi makes everything better.

We double-dog dare ya to take on the double-link chili cheese from Moishe's Pippic.
Lara Hata
We double-dog dare ya to take on the double-link chili cheese from Moishe's Pippic.

Other notable dogs: A rare foot-long sighting at the Dogfather, which is otherwise a pretty standard dog-and-sausage shop (532 Green at Jasper, 834-5277). A double-link chili-cheese dog — nice chili, too — that covers a plate and requires a fork to eat, from Moishe's Pippic (425 Hayes at Gough, 431-2440). A meat-on-meat pastrami dog (a sausage with a bright pop but lousy pastrami) at What's Up Dog (four S.F. locations, www.whatsupdog.com). And the budae jjigae, a Korean War–era "camp stew" with hot dogs, Spam, and ramen, at Toyose (3814 Noriega at 45th Ave., 731-0232).

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