Comstock Saloon: The Savory Coast

Comments (0) By Jonathan Kauffman Wednesday, Jul 14 2010

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Lara Hata

Hamburg steak: A 19th-century dish reworked with modern ingredients.

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Comstock Saloon

155 Columbus
San Francisco, CA 94133

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: North Beach/ Chinatown

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Comstock Saloon
155 Columbus (at Pacific), 617-0071, www.comstocksaloon.com. Noon-2 a.m. Tue.-Fri., 2 p.m.-2 a.m. Sat., 2 p.m.-midnight Sun. Muni: 8, 10, 12, 41. Noise level: moderate in the dining room, loud in the bar.

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More fully realized is Espinas' beef shank and bone marrow pie ($17.50), paired with a tangle of frilled arugula. The brittle lard crust shatters when you send your fork into its heart, emerging with a hank of steaming shredded beef enriched with melted marrow. Those of you who imagined yourselves in a time-traveling episode of No Reservations, dispatched to clear a table of Dickensian horrors, may be disappointed at first by the pie's tastiness. On second bite, the anticlimax is replaced by a flood of false courage. If this is Barbary Coast fare, you decide, the sink of moral pollution can't have been that depraved. Bring on the whirlpool of death! Or at least another Pisco Punch.