Indeed, though both cubanas weight about two pounds, That's It's torta cubana is one ounce heavier than Boos Voni's and about 50 percent bigger. It's also better than Boos Voni's because the many layers somehow seem more distinct — the milanesa slightly less leathery, the chorizo-reddened omelet flavorful, the ham and bacon actually detectable. We might even have enjoyed the experience had we not decided to eat in the car. The sour-cream-coated vegetables have been scrubbed off the seats by now, but we fear that after several days of July weather, the glob that dripped between the seat and the gearshift is going to make driving a very unpleasant experience.

That's It Market 2699 Mission (at 23rd St.), 285-9833.

Tortas Boos Voni 5170 Mission (at Geneva), 585-5880.

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