The stew was warm and deep-hearted, cowboy grub for an effete age. The egg melted into the broth, glazing the great chunks of pork, thumbnail-sized white beans, and diced tomato, which were scattered on top for a welcome spark of acidity. It's the kind of breakfast that bolsters you for a day's worth of hard labor. By that, of course, I mean reading Gawker and frequent treks to the lunch room. I ate it for breakfast at 9:30, and wasn't hungry again until two.

Zero Zero’s panouzzo with mortadella, prosciutto cotto, soppressata, Crescenza, and provolone.
John Birdsall
Zero Zero’s panouzzo with mortadella, prosciutto cotto, soppressata, Crescenza, and provolone.

Golden West: 8 Trinity (at Sutter).

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