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If there's one pastry chef who embodies this entire movement, it's Cheryl Burr, owner of Pinkie's Bakery (1196 Folsom at Eighth St., 556-4900, www.pinkiesbakerysf.com). Burr was the long-time pastry chef at Bacar, but by 2008, she was ready to show off her own style. She started baking artisan breads at a production kitchen on De Haro, then began selling goods out of one of the windows. After she and her friend Chris Beerman lost their lease in April, the two found adjoining spaces in SOMA. Pinkie's Bakery opened May 1. Burr now has seven employees, more than a dozen wholesale clients for her bread, a single pastry case packed with pastries and lunchtime sandwiches — and she provides desserts to Beerman's new restaurant, Citizen's Band. Her strengths, in addition to her rustic levain, are her caramelized onion and gruyere brioche and her all-American sweets: cinnamon rolls, miniature pound cakes.

"When I first decided to open my own place in 2008, the pastry scene was dominated by Frenchies, but that market is saturated," she says. "What has been popular for us has been comfort foods, things that remind you of what your mom or grandmom makes. I would never put out anything that I wouldn't want to eat while watching an entire season of Nip/Tuck."

Raspberry pound cake from Pinkie's: An all-American treat like Granny used to make.
Kimberly Sandie
Raspberry pound cake from Pinkie's: An all-American treat like Granny used to make.

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Goody Goodie

1246 Folsom (at Ninth St.)
San Francisco, CA 94103

Category: Restaurant > Bakery

Region: South of Market

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Other micropatisseries:
Anthony's Cookies (1417 Valencia at 25th St., 655-9834, www.anthonyscookies.com).
Delise Dessert Cafe (327 Bay at Mason, 399-9694, www.delisesf.com).
Sweet (218 Church at Market, 552-8992, http://sweetsweetsweet.wordpress.com, Fri.-Sun. only).
Sweet Constructions (roving stand, 307-5699, www.sweetconstructions.com).
Tell Tale Preserve Co. (www.telltalepreserveco.com; store opening at 33 Maiden at Kearny in mid-November, but stocking boxes at Coffee Bar and Sightglass Coffee).
Wholesome Bakery (331 Cortland at Bennington, 343-5414, www.wholesomebakery.com).

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