Over a sign reading "Authentic Navajo Frybread," Yazzie hand-stretched his vegan, organic dough; sizzled it in oil; and drizzled it with honey and powdered sugar. (Obviously, if you want the frybread to stay vegan you can order it without honey.) The dimpled, round frybread has its own version of nooks and crannies, yielding alternately soft and chewy bites. He often also offers savory varieties with additions like Hatch Valley green chiles as well as Navajo tacos.

Watch out for Rocky's Frybread on the streets of the Mission at spots such as Amnesia and Fabric8. Yazzie also sets up in front of El Rio starting at 9 p.m. on Monday nights. He doesn't have set prices for his food and instead accepts donations.


Kitchenette's Short Rib Sandwich
By John Birdsall

A short rib sandwich minitrend is gripping the city, San Francisco! Maybe nobody has done it quite so good lately as Kitchenette. Off the loading dock Monday we scored one that took inspiration from sauerbraten. Really, though, it made us think of pot roast. Really good pot roast, the kind where the meat fibers hold together by the flimsiest web of delicate connective tissue, and the flavor is in danger of having leached into whatever liquid the meat braised in, only with just enough left to taste like beef.

Far as we could tell, the sauer part kept to the heap of buttery melted cabbage and bronze fennel, which tasted like it'd been goosed with a good slug of good vinegar. We didn't even notice the apple butter that must've been smeared on the sandwich's Acme baguette, except as a vague sweetness we thought, as we ate, that comes from general virtuousness alone. Shows you what we know.

Kitchenette: 958 Illinois (at 20th St.).

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