At Public House, the skin on a grilled Gigante Dog ($10) snaps, a residue of pale orange juice weeping into the Acme bun that frames without muffling. It comes with a condiment caddy, but you don't need to go there. The dog I snarfed last week on the eve of the World Series disappeared fast, and I would've ordered a second, except for the price. My single Gigante Dog was worth every dollar, though, to effect a restoration of faith.

Public House: 24 Willie Mays Plaza (Third and King sts.), 644-0240.

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