Melissa Barnes
There's a story behind every cocktail. Ask your server for the hyperbole-free details.
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SLIDESHOW: Bar Agricole in Photos
Bar Agricole
355 11th St. (at Harrison), 355-9400, www.baragricole.com. 6 p.m.-1 a.m. daily. Reservations required. Muni: 9, 12, 27, 47. Noise level: moderate to loud. Completely wheelchair accessible.
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It became clear after my second meal that my halfhearted feelings toward Jew's food reflect my own prejudices — the prospect of eating grandiose food in downtempo settings holds a more potent appeal than dining on comfort food on an opera set. I don't know that I'd make a night of it at Bar Agricole again, but cocktails with a few farm-to-table snacks? Any night of the week. I'll warm to any grand gesture that leaves me garrulous and flushed. That'd be the effect of the decor, of course.