At Una Pizza Napoletana, Anthony Mangieri does pizza his way

Comments (0) By Jonathan Kauffman Wednesday, Nov 24 2010

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Lara Hata

Out of the fire and onto the plate: Una Pizza's margherita.

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Una Pizza Napoletana

210 11th St.
San Francisco, CA 94103

Category: Restaurant > Pizza

Region: South of Market

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Una Pizza Napoletana
210 Eleventh St. (at Howard), 861-3444, www.unapizza.com. 5 p.m. until the dough runs out, Wed.-Sat. Muni: J, K, L, M, N, T (Van Ness station). Wheelchair accessible.

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In contrast to the cultivated unpredictability of the crust, the toppings were spread with a deft syncopation. In any one bite, a pool of mozzarella might be announced by a scorched, aromatic herb leaf, or a whiff of garlic could presage the gush of a fresh tomato. And while most of the other self-titled Neapolitan pizzas in San Francisco toughen and slump after a minute or two, the last piece of Mangieri's pies captivated my attention almost as much as the first — and I ate more of those pizzas than anyone else at the table.

Like any convert, I have thoughts that have been occupied by Una Pizza Napoletana ever since. Yeah, I know that a couple of pizzas plus a bottle of wine can cost around $30 a person, but it's a rare thing for me to eat something done so purely, so right. And each time I fend off the urge to return (obviously easier on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday than the four days he's open for business), I think of that wait, and I say to myself: Perhaps next week. Perhaps the week after. Perhaps if I find myself with a free evening and a couple of Clif Bars in my bag.