Fresh Eats

Our weekly roundup of SFoodie news

Hayes Valley's Permanent Popup

By John Birdsall

As the first installation of the Proxy development in Hayes Valley draws near, the principal of Envelope A+D — Proxy's designer — says the development will include a space for guest chefs to mount a constantly changing series of popup eateries.

Sandwich of house-made maple andouille with Treviso chicory at Locavore.
John Birdsall
Sandwich of house-made maple andouille with Treviso chicory at Locavore.

Envelope principal Douglas Burnham says the Oakland firm plans to directly fund and operate Proxy's popup kitchen. "We would essentially invite or curate a series of different chefs — visiting chefs — and use one container for it." By "container," Burnham is referring to the modified shipping containers (the kind stacked up on ships at the Port of Oakland) that'll make up the Proxy structures, stretching along Octavia between Fell and Hayes in two lots. "It could be for a week, a month, or even just a night or two," Burnham says about the guest chefs. Popups could feature chefs visiting from other cities, "or young, up-and-coming chefs now working in other people's kitchens." Envelope has also been in conversation with La Cocina about featuring its client businesses in steady rotation.

EAT THIS: Locavore's $7 Sausages

By John Birdsall

Jason Moniz was the opening chef at Oakland's Flora in late 2007, back when Michael Bauer liked the place. Last fall, Moniz and his business partner, Mario Duarte, opened Locavore, in a deep, dark space on the Mission Street slope of Bernal Heights, across from Blue Plate. For lunch, Moniz makes and grills five kinds of sausages — really good sausages, out of pork he sources from Riverdog Farm in Guinda — slips them into buns custom-made at Sandbox, and sells them for an amazingly cheap $7 each. One day Moniz offered spicy Italian sausage (pebbly-textured and chewy) half-buried under a ruffle of roasted fennel slices mixed with bits of preserved lemon. Another time it was a fat maple andouille, lightly smoky, topped with shredded Treviso chicory, its bitterness balanced with honey. The andouille's tight, crisp skin was black from the grill; the fine-textured meat within oozed juice. Perfect.

Locavore: 3215 Mission (at Fair), 821-1918. Sausages available Tue.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.

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