A sushirrito, somewhat ironically, is the girth and length of a rice-free La Taqueria burrito. You will be able to fist it, and while a few stray shredded peppers or carrots drip out of each end, the wrapping is tight enough to proceed down the roll vertically.

Whether you'll enjoy it is another matter. Half the varieties I tried got pushed away after a few bites. One was the Latin Ninja ($9), with its mushy salmon-mango-avocado core flavored only with the clanging notes of daikon and pickled onions. Another was the Mamacita ($10.50), whose candylike "Mexican kabayaki" sauce combined with the sugary Japanese gourd inside to overpower everything else, primarily a gushy blend of tuna, shiitakes, and avocados.

The other half of the rolls? I'd order them again: The Smokin' Chicken ($8.50) followed up on a hit of gingery, soy-marinated fried chicken with a flash of bell peppers and spring onions and the creamy sweetness of fried plantain. Sounds weird, I know, but it worked. So did the Buddha Boy ($8), a straightforward vegan roll stuffed with marinated tofu, sweet gourd, mushrooms, and a host of crunchy vegetables. And the normal seafood-cheese-pairing alarms didn't sound with the Crispy Ebi ($10.50), which topped tempura shrimp with pepperjack cheese and Sriracha crema. The Crispy Ebi tasted like it was filled with some fried stuff, some spicy stuff, and some mixed vegetables. I couldn't parse it all out, so I simply ate. FiDi lunches are about power, not grace — picking up something healthy and tasty you can down in 30 minutes — and by those standards, these sushirritos make for a fine lunch.

On a roll: crawfish, cucumber, and tobiko with scallop on top.
Lara Hata
On a roll: crawfish, cucumber, and tobiko with scallop on top.

Location Info

Map

Sushirrito

59 New Montogmery
San Francisco, CA 94105

Category: Restaurant > Fusion

Region: South of Market

Details

1740 Church (at Day), 282-1889, www.tatakisushibar.com. 5-9:30 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 5-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Muni: J, 24.59 New Montgomery (at Jessie), 495-7655, www.sushirrito.com. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Muni: at Montgomery station. Takeout only.

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When I told Corson about the sushirrito, he snorted, then pulled up the restaurant's website to read while we talked. He quickly stopped laughing. "These things are closer to authentic futomaki than most American rolls," he said, referring to a popular Japanese picnic snack stuffed with cooked ingredients. It was my turn to snort. The sushirrito is so new-school it's positively retro.

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3 comments
Chef Sustaine
Chef Sustaine

Intellectual laziness, or lazy reporting?

"Like Tataki South's rolls, sushirritos are stuffed with Loch Duart salmon, Cleanseas hiramasa, and handline-caught tuna — fish that are either farmed or caught in relatively low-impact ways."

Loch Duart salmon, Cleanseas hiramasa? Farmed in relatively low-impact ways? Fed wild-caught fish pellets in open-netcage factory fishfarms with significant toxic waste issues?

Come on Mr. Kauffman, comparing the industry leading sustainable practices of Tataki and Casson Trenor (No Ocean feed-fish depleting, parasiticide-laced, antibiotic-ridden and chemically-dyed farmed fish served!)......, to the greedily bankrupt practices of Tim O'Shea's "Cleanfish" Loch Duart Farmed Salmon, and the "Cleanseas" Hiramasa served at Sushirito-(Ocean feed-fish depleting, parasiticide-laced, antibiotic-ridden and chemically-dyed farmed fish definitely served!) ?You read Erik Vance's piece in SF Mag, one would think your claims of enlightenment would hold consistent.You wrote:"However, the overall message ― that sustainability-conscious diners and chefs are sold far too many threatened species and seafood caught through environmentally destructive means ― is compelling. And given the speed at which the oceans are being depleted, it's a chilling one, too."You're a good reporter, and a very good food writer, but I think you owe Tataki an apology for lumping them in with Tim "Barnum" O'Shea of "Cleanfish" and Hagen Stehr's "Cleanseas" mis-information campaigns to grow the markets for their universally-condemned factory fish farming practices. See Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch cards.Sushirrito is cutting corners with their fish sourcing, backed with blasphemous blarney of two of the biggest "Clean" scammers in the seafood industry. Throw Neil Sims of Kona Blue "Kampachi" in to make it a triumvirate. All three of these operators have scammed many establishments in SF with their sustainable fish farming "claims".Casson Trenor of Tataki and Kenny Belov of Fish are the only restaurateurs in the SF Bay area that are serving clean fish!! --pristine, chemical-free, ethically harvested seafood, green-listed by substantial environmental groups, and spending lots of time and money educating consumers and Chefs. Most Chefs are still unable to grasp "the speed at which the oceans are being depleted"-as are many food writers.

I hate to see you drawn in by the obfuscation, hornswaggled by the greedy ocean-rapers of Barnum O'Shea and Hagen Stehr's ilk, like a late-born suckerfish.

Chef Sustaine-SF

Pure Audacity
Pure Audacity

Ha. I totally agree with Chef Sustaine. I also feel bad for Mr. Kauffman, as it appears he is missing some crucial taste buds. The food at Tataki South is not bland. This idiot writer (food critic?!) just doesn't have a *clue* when it comes to sushi. I bet Kauffman prefers the heavily salted, flavor-onslaught fare at lesser restaurants that completely lacks delicacy, balance, and finesse. SF Weekly, save us the trouble of reading useless drivel like this in the future, please? Let's support our local restaurants with constructive, informed reviews instead of blathering by tastebud-challenged Joe Schmoes.

 
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