When in Rome, stick to a simple carbonara sauce.
Kimberly Sandie
When in Rome, stick to a simple carbonara sauce.

If there's a strength emerging at Locanda, it's Strong's delicate way with what the Romans call the quinto quarto (an animal's "fifth quarter"), aka offal. Chilled slices of tongue ($12) curled around shavings of celery and gaeta olives, with salsa verde drizzled overtop; the smooth, pale sips of meat played the role of the quiet tenor at the center of a polyphonic motet. No zombie, I am a reluctant eater of brains. Yet on the night I found the trippa alla romana I'd hoped to order had taken the day off, I ordered the lamb brains with artichokes ($12) instead. They were cut into chunks the size of quail's eggs, breaded and deep-fried, then showered in fried capers and sage leaves. Inside the rumpled, golden crust, the meat was no more substantial than whipped cream. It hardly mattered whether Strong had learned the technique in Rome or San Francisco — the brains were internationally exceptional.

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That's the honest review we should all expect! Was there any doubt that this place would be beautiful? Did we expect a different clientele than the one described? Not at all. But the problems mentioned are real flaws that certainly need to be worked on. There are no doubt going to be some really amazing things coming out of this kitchen, but their track record is not a free pass to gloss over the imperfections. Locanda has some early glitches, and they will fine tune the product in time. Thanks Kauf for the true honest review readers appreciate.

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