Those moments of surprise are one of the main similarities between Haven's New California Cuisine and the more intellectually driven food at Coi and Commis. They come through in cocktails like Haven's Flash Gordon ($10), in which the spiky edges of gin and yuzu are softened with a dash of celery juice, as well as pastry chef Matt Tinder's witty Baked California ($12): Yes, it's a baked Alaska, except the meringue is scented with fennel, the citrus sherbet underneath sets atop a salted-almond crust, and the marshmallow-looking fluff on the side is actually avocado mousse. The last surprise? It's as good as it looks.

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