As usual, the main dining room at Original Joe's is filled.
Lara Hata
As usual, the main dining room at Original Joe's is filled.

What is astonishing is that, after five years of absence and a change of location and décor, the Duggans still command the kind of loyalty that packs a restaurant on a Wednesday night. Original Joe's, original or no, conjures up a collective nostalgia for the days when San Francisco was a port town, teeming with Army and Navy men, and you could still hear Italian in Little Italy. Even for an early 1990s immigrant like me, the sensation is hard to shake.

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