Stepping back out into the bustle after dinner, the perpetual line for Bi-Rite Creamery snaking past Namu Gaji's windows, I couldn't help but feel like this new place fit right in. Location is never a guarantee of success, but some restaurants manage to get most everything else right from the start, serving unusual food that speaks to the times, and striding confidently onto the scene like new neighbors from far-flung towns who, sporting their layers like pros, look like they've found their true home.

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