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Little Green Cyclo: Seriously, Try the Tater Tots 

Wednesday, Dec 19 2012

While exploring the food truck world, it becomes clear that there is a divide of expectations that make it tough for the vendors. On one side are people who demand big and cheap portions from the truck — the mobile equivalent of a fast-food joint. On the other are those who want the convenience and novelty, but also expect high-quality ingredients and food pedigree. Little Green Cyclo straddles these desires.

Using organic ingredients, Niman beef, and Mary's chicken, the truck appeals to those looking for a higher-end experience on wheels. The Shaking Beef Garlic Noodles ($11), one of the most expensive dishes I've purchased at a food truck to date, is so rich with butter and truffle oil that it demands to be shared. People looking for a deal find the price outrageous, comparing it to Tenderloin holes in the wall, but it's hard to argue with the quality ingredients (the truffle oil being the exception), and if you like garlic noodles, it's a good dish. While the beef was juicy and the noodles have good chew with plenty of garlic, the richness can overwhelm the solo diner.

House-made Sweet Potato Tater Tots ($3), though, are the common ground where every diner will find happiness. They're fat, golden nuggets, crisp and relatively greaseless, with a choice of dipping sauces. The pineapple-agave we tried added a touch of aioli richness with just enough sweetness to accent the tots. Perhaps even more impressive was that, despite feeling like the whole fried-sweet-potato-thing is played out, we couldn't stop eating these. With an inside texture firmer than mashed potatoes yet softer than regular potato tots, and starchy skin that crackles and gives way to a perfect mix of salty and sweet, these are something everyone can agree on.

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