Cuco's: Under the Burrito of Damocles

A couple of years ago, local blog Mission Mission conceded that the best burrito in San Francisco couldn't be found in the Mission at all, but actually resides at family-run Cuco's in the Lower Haight. (On top of that, it's vegetarian, too.)

Made with lightly caramelized plantains, Cuco's massive, inexpensive super burrito — which is otherwise pretty classic, with sour cream, guacamole, and an optional choice of meat — comes in at only $7. "You going to finish it?" the proprietress, Mrs. Cuco, may ask with an incredulous, flirty smile as she serves it to you. (She will be impressed if you ask for spicy salsa, too).

Sadly, and much to our chagrin, Cuco's is basically hanging by a thread. A scare last year when the landlord threatened to give this 22-year tenant the boot has not materialized — yet. Has anything changed? "I don't know," she says. "I don't know if I'm going to be here in one day, one week, one year."

It's tempting to think that only a truly dastardly person would evict such a kindly couple, but such things do happen. It would be also remiss not to acknowledge the tortilla chips, which are thick, pleasantly crumbly, and a unique accompaniment to this stellar burrito.

So it would behoove one to get over there sooner rather than later, just in case. And if you finish the whole super burrito, show Mrs. Cuco your plate. She'll feign bashfulness, but she'll be very pleased.

 
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