Tender fried gnocchi topped with fried onions and Parmesan is a standout at Wine Kitchen.
Mike Hendrickson
Tender fried gnocchi topped with fried onions and Parmesan is a standout at Wine Kitchen.

Location Info

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Wine Kitchen

507 Divisadero St.
San Francisco, CA 94117

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Haight/ Fillmore

Details

Fried gnocchi $13
English peas $9
Scallops $12
Tuna crudo $14
Hanger steak & egg $13

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I don't mean to pick too much on Wine Kitchen. It's across the street from Nopa, meaning they're sure to get some solid overflow traffic, and it's a perfectly pleasant place to have a glass of wine and a snack. The neighborhood's average rent for a one-bedroom is above $2,500; it has supported upscale restaurants like Nopa, Nopalito, and Bar Crudo for years. Gentrification is par for the course in a city like San Francisco, and there's nothing wrong with ambition when it's executed well. I just hope that it doesn't mean a neighborhood as gritty as Divisadero has to lose its roots.

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6 comments
fabulist
fabulist

It is very lazy, and morally suspect, to conflate a food review with the typical SF resistance to what the rest of the world calls neighborhood improvement, and we in SF derisively call gentrification.  What is particularly galling is that if the people who lament the loss of a neighborhood dive bar actually frequented that establishment, they would not need to shut down.  Instead, they walk by the place every day, presumably enriched by its soul or character by osmosis, and then lament loudly when the low quality booze and the bad food goes unsold, and the place has to close, as if the bulldozers are advancing on a UNESCO heritage site.   Also, if you want decor with character, go to a TGI Fridays.  The decor at WK is clean and minimalist.  It is a very small space and anything more extravagant would end up cluttered and annoying,

After sitting Shiva for the joints that can't draw enough customers to survive,  a tepid, dare i say soulless, food review breaks out which in fact fails to find  serious fault with anything other than the garnish on one dish and the fact that the writer could not figure out how to east Steak and Eggs (seems pretty self-explanatory to me).  Despite the failure to find anything seriously amiss, even the positive review comes off as whiny and annoyed.  And some of the most intriguing and innovative dishes, like the Buffolo Style Sweetbreads, don't even get a mention. 

The most ridiculous dig about the WK is that the other patrons are actually enjoying themselves talking about their actual lives.  I had no idea that there was supposed to be conversation code, similar to a dress code, for a restaurant. As long as they are enjoying themselves, and not bothering anyone else, they can discuss partial differential equations in Swahili for all I care.  Sorry that you have such a lonely and dispirited life. Maybe if you drink more of the wine your liked so much instead of the kombucha (which tastes like a drug test sample from a yak), you may be happier and have more interesting friends.  This one is all on you, not the Wine Kitchen.

The Wine Kitchen has a great selection of wines, two really innovative guys cooking up great food, incredibly helpful staff, and a very peaceful and soothing atmosphere.  In my view, it adds to the neighborhood by creating a very pleasing and inviting focal point in the neighborhood that deserves to be celebrated, not unfairly blamed for the lousy dive bar closing.  If you want to write an article about gentrification, then write that article.  Don't lay your fear of change or your abject loneliness at the door of the Wine Kitchen.

venusbirth
venusbirth

This is a ridiculous article.  

I was at WK the night the photog took the pics.  He sure had no problem eating the 3 plates food and the glass of wine- SOULLESS and all....

I guess his soul allowed him to eat free food.

The food quality &creativity is fantastic- reminiscent of Contigo.  WK is a first restaurant for these guys- and BRAVO to them.

Anna Roth do something BRAVE (like open a restaurant) rather than hid behind a computer screen.  

Those who CAN-DO 

Those who CAN'T- REVIEW


The lamb, the sweet breads, the Monte Cristo, and the tuna ARE ALL THE BUSINESS ! 

LowerHaighter
LowerHaighter

Uhh..are you a restaurant critic or a cultural critic?  This article seems WAY off topic.  Awful article.

kjbw888
kjbw888

There are already so many gritty parts of SF for everyone to enjoy. Why do you feel it's necessary to write a negatively slanted article about two locals who are trying to start a business. Its not like Starbucks and Chipotle are entering the strip - its all small business supporting the neighborhood. How is grittiness and boarded up store fronts somehow better than a rejuvenating neighborhood where it's residents can feel safe walking down the street and have places to go where we live?

saysthekid
saysthekid

Narcissistic nostalgia...horrible article...dare I say "soulless." Exellent small plates and a great addition to the neighborhood.

 
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