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B. Patisserie: Remixing the Kouign-Amann 

Wednesday, Jul 24 2013

Belinda Leong's kouign-amann, a Breton cake made of layers of butter and sugar-slathered pastry dough baked up into a delicate celebration of caramelization and custard, had the potential to be this city's version of the cronut. When she opened B. Patisserie in February, the kouign-amann routinely disappeared in a few hours, but she got the amount on lock before huge lines had a chance to form, so you should now be able to find one there for most of the day. And you can even find at least two additional kouign-related products.

Leong sometimes sells filled kouign-amanns; she started with a giant "bleeding heart," one with cassis, blackberry, pomegranate, and raspberries, shortly after opening for Valentine's Day. She currently offers a blueberry version for summer.

Perhaps more dangerous is the bag of kouign-amann "ends" that are sold at the counter. They capture the crispiest and most caramelized element of the item, which triggers all kinds of pleasure centers in the brain. One advantage of these over the actual kouign-amann is that the ends maintain their texture longer. But since it's far too easy to take down a whole bunch of them in one swoop, you'll probably never know this for sure.

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Tamara Palmer

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