Dona Carmen started her restaurant out of boredom 20 years ago. "When I first arrived, my kids did not want me to look for work," she says. "I wanted to work."

Her situation changed. First her husband died, and then her children formed families of their own and could no longer pay for her rent. Now that she is over 60, she finds it daunting to find a job. "Now that I am alone I can't work in a restaurant," she says. "No one hires you after 50."

Back in her kitchen, Mey greets two other men he knows. They start speaking Yucatec Maya. It's the usual lunchtime chatter: hangovers, their bosses, soccer games.

"Everyone walks in talking gossip," Dona Carmen says. "That's what life is like in San Pancho."

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6 comments
Alexander Guryev
Alexander Guryev

Alright time to seek these places out, El Farolito is effing over.

Alfonzo Collazo
Alfonzo Collazo

Love it!!! Love the industriousness, the inter-community support.. all of it!

Soyla Tejana
Soyla Tejana

yup, been there but the food was deee-lish! not this particular place but one similar to it.

johnjohn
johnjohn

this wouldn't be illegal if the story revolved around a white, jort-wearing, skinny kid from Wisconson, making kale, truffles, home-brewed malt and selling for $16 a plate to his/her fellow cul-de-sacian friends--oh wait, they call it a "farmer's market"

 
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