Third Rail: S.F.'s First Jerky Bar

S.F. has a new bar dedicated to ... jerky. Last week in the Dogpatch, the Third Rail opened its doors with a menu featuring nine kinds of jerky — made of tender-chewy beef, pork, and even a surprisingly interesting vegetable version. The spot is in the former Retox bar, and is from the Range crew: chef Phil West and bar guru Jeff Lyons.

Our veggie-centric pal smiled big at the vadouvan vegetable option, which melds carrots with caramelized shallot, curry, and turmeric. The jerky is priced at $2.50 to $3 an ounce, and we were glad to have a citrus-y Third Rail cocktail (Buffalo Trace bourbon, Lillet, honey, lemon, and orange bitters) to combat the heat of the Scotch Bonnet-infused Five Dot Ranch beef Jerk Jerky. Tasty, a little fiery, and a nice nibble while drinking.

Cocktails are divided into four types: aperitif, seasonal, citrus, and spirituous. The 601 is a lovely apertif, with Sutton Cellars vermouth, Prosecco, ginger, honey, and lemon; Double Date incorporates date-infused rye, George Dickel whiskey, Punt e Mes, cardamaro, and cinnamon bitters.

The space is inspired by classic train stations with a nod to mid-century modern design, and is the handiwork of Paxton Gate owner Sean Quigley and Lead Designer Todd McCrea, whose other recent eatery projects include Flour + Water, Central Kitchen, and the Le Marais Bakery in the Marina. Candles give the space a subtle romantic feel, and the enormous clock in the entry is reminiscent of those at Union Station — the message being perhaps that it's time to let the night's journey begin (it only adds to the atmosphere to hear the MUNI T-line chugging by).

For a particularly sweet seat with a view, cozy up at the banquette tables directly across from the main bar and admire the space's art-deco type brackets inspired directly by the Golden Gate Bridge. Time will tell if this is a destination spot, but it's safe to say the Dogpatch has a cozy new bar to enjoy.

 
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