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At Southpaw BBQ, Get the Smoked Goat 

Wednesday, Jun 25 2014
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Southpaw BBQ's smoked pulled goat is a dish that simultaneously makes no sense at all and all the sense in the world. Goat, not exactly the first meat that comes to mind when one thinks of Southern barbecue, is accompanied by frybread, pineapple relish, salsa verde, and a side of bread and butter pickles. Though it may sound like someone was seriously stoned in the kitchen while creating this dish, the eclectic components somehow manage to tie together.

Southpaw marinates a whole goat in yogurt and its house rub: a complex blend of smoked paprika, mustard seeds, cumin, black peppercorn, and 14 other spices. The goat is then put in the smoker for 12 hours before the entire thing is shredded, chopped, and mixed. You get different pieces of the goat in the same bite, some leaner, some fattier, resulting a nice contrast in texture. Any sort of gaminess often associated with goat is mellowed by the smokiness created by the marinade and cooking.

For the perfect bite, scoop the goat medley onto a piece of frybread, which is dusted in the aforementioned house rub along with a heavy hand with oregano and thyme. The taste and texture is reminiscent of Taco Bell's chalupa in the best way possible. Next, spoon on the salsa verde (which looks like a chimichurri but tastes more like a chutney) and top with the parsley-speckled pineapple relish. Finally, consume. Everything works in harmony: the smokiness, the earthiness, the sweetness, the chalupaness. It's marvelous. Alternate bites with bread and butter pickles to temper the complexity of it all.

The dish is on the shared plates section of the menu, but fair warning: You may not want to share this one.

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Omar Mamoon

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