Best New Sandwich Concept

“All-in-One” at Giordano Bros.

303 Columbus (at Broadway), 397-2767,

You've tried the Philly cheesesteak and the New Orleans po' boy and the Atlantic City sub and the Italian beef out of Chicago and other examples of regional American sandwich-making ingenuity; now there's a new hero/grinder/blimp/ hoagie in town. The “All-in-One” (conceived as an especially hearty example of the genre for the truck drivers of Pittsburgh, Pa.) takes the portable-meal concept one step further, cramming between the bread not only meat and cheese but also the stuff one usually enjoys on the side: fries and coleslaw. This makes for a notably vertical and unkempt sandwich, but the spicy-sweet chewiness of the Italian sausage against the hot crunch of the shoestring potatoes and the cool tang of the coleslaw, bound together with milky, melting provolone, is a wonderfully satisfying culinary experience. Although Giordano may be the city's first Pittsburgh-style eatery, the makings are purely local: meats from Molinari's, produce from Sbragia, and bread from the Italian French Bakery that's ideal for soaking up all those distinct flavors.

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