Really good barbecue's hard to come by within San Francisco's municipal limits, but Brother-in-Laws has got the spice-dripping, porcine-powered goods. The smell of it hits you from a block away: meltingly good ribs, snappy hot links, moist, tender chicken, and crumbly brisket cooking a good long time in the sort of sauce that could make a vegan stop and reflect upon paths not taken. Most customers get the stuff to go, but there are a couple of tables (authentically bereft of plates) where you can chow down to your heart's content, paper napkins scattered about. Good baked beans, potato salad, and mustard greens too.