The classic spot at which to sample jook -- the thick, soul-soothing rice porridge ribboned with scallions, fish heads, and other things -- is Sam Wo, legendary late-night purveyor of amusingly rude service, but the variety available at the larger, airier Hing Lung is far more extensive and (even to the untutored) surprisingly delicious. Abalone, roasted duck, fresh clams, and pork-blood curd (pass) are among the 19 jooks prepared and served, steaming hot; at the top of the list is the tender whitefish with fresh ginger and cilantro. Get a side order of the light, crullerlike fried bread for dunking purposes -- the contrasts of smooth and crisp and sweet and hot make for a marvelous eye-opener. Jooks are $2 to $6.50 per huge bowl.