Imagine it: Midnight on a weekend, and damn it, once again you've forgotten to eat dinner. You're too dressed up for a burrito, got over Mel's long ago, and are hoping for something more ... refined, yet simple, yet elegantly prepared. And you wouldn't mind a bottle of champagne to wash it down. Enter the grand belon ($66) -- 18 oysters, 12 mussels, six littleneck clams, six shrimp, lots of periwinkles, and half a Dungeness crab. Throw in mussels à la marinière with frites, all of which is served until 1 a.m. on weekends, and, as lovely as the food is, the extended hours are the real reason we hope -- no, pray -- the recently opened Belon will be around for a long time to come.