Sure, we could have given these guys best banjan (sautéed eggplant), best aushak (Afghan ravioli), or best aush (beef/yogurt/noodle soup). And don't even get us started on the chowpan (rack of lamb) or any of the other lamb dishes at the city's best, and only, Afghan restaurant. Though everything on the menu is superb, no dish has haunted us as thoroughly as the Helmand's kaddo -- a thick wedge of pan-fried pumpkin baked with brown sugar until it reaches a spoonable consistency, topped with cool, soothing yogurt and spice-rich minced beef. Sometimes, food resonates in a way that changes your life forever. Kaddo did this. We are powerless before it. Long live the Helmand.