Step into Maurizio Bruschi's Ristorante Ideale and life will seem a little bit better. The décor is warm and soothing, the bread is fresh-baked, and the food -- from a flawless saltimbocca to the almost criminally flavorful spaghetti baked in cartoccio -- just plain kicks ass. Then comes the crescendo -- tiramisu -- which translates as "carry me up" and will indeed take you higher via a cloudlike blend of bitter chocolate, espresso, mascarpone, and ladyfingers. Plenty of places serve it, but Maurizio's version is just a bit more seductive than any we've tried. It can stun you to your knees, or send you through the roof, but either way, you will be moved, which is all anyone can ask of dessert.