At Ton Kiang, the décor is posh (comfy booths, big round tables, pale walls, immaculate linen), and the dim sum is, too. The classics (cha siu bao, barbecued pork buns; siu mai, pork dumplings; wah tip, pot stickers) are perfectly made, and there are interesting, less common items (mol mai gai, sticky rice with meat wrapped in a leaf; siu ling bao, Shanghai meat dumplings). But our favorites are the many delicate changes rung on shrimp: dumplings stuffed with shrimp and spinach, shrimp and green chives, shrimp and napa cabbage, shrimp and scallops; and shrimp-stuffed crab claws, shrimp-stuffed eggplants, and our favorite, the exquisite bite of spring, shrimp and pea tip dumplings, glowing pink and pale green through their translucent wrappers. Come during the day, when you can choose your dim sum from rolling carts (at night you're given a menu with fewer choices). And finish up with the best tiny egg-custard tarts (don tah) imaginable.