The rich, creamy, slightly musky character of the avocado can be enjoyed in soups, on burgers, and even in ice cream (hello, Mitchell's), but it's most pleasurably experienced when combined with chopped onions and lime juice and scooped up with a corn chip. There's a lot of guacamole in this town, but none is more strikingly festive than Maya's. Big, ripe chunks of the fruit are tossed with chopped tomato, fresh cilantro, minced onion, and as much slivered chili pepper as you desire. The result is a cool, spicy, chunky meal-opener bursting with flavor. Best of all, it's served up in a pounded-silver, two-tiered guacamolera set inside a base of volcanic rock -- a stylistic touch consistent with the restaurant's hand-carved chairs, Mayan masks, and other authentically dramatic elements.