"The pig is an encyclopedic animal," said Grimod de la Reynière, "a veritable meal on legs." Our favorite volume in the great porcine Brittanica is the chop, that tender, fat-ribboned slab of rib meat that gladdens the taste buds and redeems applesauce on a regular basis. All too often, though, this tasty source of protein and cholesterol is cooked to the dry and leathery stage. Not so at the Acme, where the best pork chop in our exhaustive experience is prepared and served. This cured, double-cut exemplar of the species is a good two inches thick, grilled a deep rich brown on the outside and rose-white within, with a buttery taste and texture, a hint of woodsmoke throughout, and a luscious layer of tasty fat along the side. Other Acme menu items are equally admirable: the marinated grilled squid, the luscious scalloped potatoes, the buttery house-made caramel corn. It's just the sort of rib-sticking fare you need before a night game at Pac Bell.