We get a thrill every time we walk into Tadich's: It looks to us just like a restaurant should, from its carefully maintained, gleaming dark wood to its sparkling white-tiled floors. We like the curly-backed bentwood chairs, the art deco light fixtures, the clean aprons on the waitstaff. The building at 240 California St. has housed Tadich Grill only since 1967, but photographs of the previous location, 545 Clay (since 1912; the restaurant has moved several times since it opened in 1849), show an identical interior. (The fixtures and fittings were moved into the exact same layout on California.) Our affection for Tadich Grill is shared by writer John Briscoe, whose lovingly detailed Tadich Grill: The Story of San Francisco's Oldest Restaurant was published by Ten Speed Press in 2002.