Food & Drink

Comments (0) Best Brisket - 2004

East Coast West Delicatessen

East Coast West Delicatessen

1725 Polk

San Francisco, CA 94109

415-563-3542

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Most briskets of beef are pickled in brown sugar and saltpeter and emerge after a week or two as corned beef, an undeniably tasty delicacy, but there's nothing like a fresh, sliced brisket, braised in its own juices for several hours with onion, garlic, a bit of carrot, salt and pepper, and nothing else, for a gloriously tender alternative to your basic roast chuck. East Coast West makes a very nice brisket. It's treated with the patience and respect the cut deserves, and the results are paper-thin slices of absolutely moist, tender meat that crumbles against your fork and dissolves in your mouth. The Polk Gulch deli serves it four ways: as a platter with potatoes and vegetables; in a hot open-faced sandwich with mashed potatoes and gravy; in a really big sandwich; or in a really big (1-pound) sandwich. The latter option is our favorite, with the brisket allowed to shine against a simple backdrop of corn rye, a hit of mustard, maybe a sour tomato on the side. And would a little kugel kill you?

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