Too many salads served under the proud name of Caesar don't fulfill the mandate of this dish: The lettuce is neither romaine nor served in whole leaves, the eggless dressing is watery, there's a timid hand with the garlic, and all too often the anchovies have gone entirely missing. Not so at Oola, where you'll find a sublime Caesar salad, a stack of crisp romaine leaves drenched in a brave dressing, pungent with garlic, sharp with anchovies, and salty with Parmesan, topped with more silky white anchovies and oily croutons. A plus: Here you can command a Caesar until 1 a.m.