We like a lot of the small plates on offer at this chic, comfortable new South of Market wine bar -- or "Vino y Mas(a)," as it styles itself, with "mas" for more and "(a)" for masa, the corn flour dough that encloses Tamal's signature tamales. But we were especially wowed by the crisp, fragile pastry on the crab empanadas, filled with sweet Dungeness and served on a mild, creamy roasted red pepper rémoulade, with sharp garlic aioli dabbed on top. We'd eat almost anything that came in such a knowing and tasty flaky crust.