The best sandwich on Earth is the roasted dark meat turkey sandwich on LaBrea Bakery sourdough at Greenblatt's Delicatessen in West Hollywood, but a reasonable facsimile is available at Tommy's Joynt, the ornately rendered cafeteria/ bar at Geary and Van Ness. Shards of meat are sliced from a freshly roasted turkey before your eyes and nestled between the folds of a sourdough roll. That's all there is to it -- no lettuce or tomato or apricot-wasabi aioli, nothing to distract the taste buds from the elemental pleasures of moist, tender fowl against chewy, yeasty bread. There are two kinds of mustard on each table, plus help-yourself sliced pickles in a barrel at the end of the steam tables, but why gild the lily? One of the bar's hundred beers from around the world makes a nice accompaniment, however.