Best Soup - 2005
Acqua Povera at Brindisi Cucina di Mare
88 Belden (at Pine), 593-8000, www.brindisicucina.com
The name means "poor water" (something like the legendary stone soup), but it's ironic in this instance. At Brindisi, home of many good things to eat, this compulsively edible and satisfying soup comes in a huge bowl. It's a shiny broth full of rapini, white beans, brilliant green peas, and chunks of fried bread -- and you'll feel richer for having tried it.