Lee's Deli

Twelve locations, including: 322 Kearny (at Bush), 986-1052; 475 Sansome (at Clay), 391-4740; 222 Front (at California), 433-3222; and 648 Market (between Montgomery and Kearny), 421-0648

They're down-market in so many ways, but the multiple Lee's Deli locations still make one of the best turkey sandwiches to be found in San Francisco. The company roasts its own turkey -- real bird, not pressed or processed -- and you can get thick slices of nice, moist dark meat, plus a zillion condiments. A turkey-avo-tomato costs only $3, cheaper even than at Safeway, and the service is always quick and friendly. None of the bare-bones locales has any ambience to speak of, but we don't care when we can eat so well for so little.