New Orleans' loss is our gain: Having just opened the House of Seafood in San Francisco when Katrina hit, Andrew Jaeger and his staff decided to stick around when their eponymous Big Easy restaurant was closed due to the hurricane. The erstwhile Condor Club has been rendered unrecognizable, with plush booths and drapes and an inexplicable scattering of wide-screen TVs. Fortunately, the New Orleans–themed programming doesn't distract from the rich temptations on offer: oysters Rockefeller or baked with blue cheese; crisp fried Delta catfish; shrimp remoulade; turtle soup dosed with sherry; plus gumbo, jambalaya, crawfish étouffée, red beans and rice — all the dishes, high and low, that made New Orleans a dining mecca. Watch the blackboard for the day's fresh fish; listen up for live jazz in the adjacent bar.