"Many's the long night I've dreamed of cheese," says the castaway in Treasure Island, reflecting upon the single worst deprivation of being marooned on a desert isle for three years. Conversely, the single best thing about the San Francisco branch of civilization is the variety of great cheeses nurtured here. Case in point: Cowgirl Creamery's Red Hawk. This brine-washed round of triple-cream heaven, made from the milk of Straus Family Dairy cows, is aged for six weeks at the creamery up in Pt. Reyes Station until its texture is as soft and yielding as a room-temperature brie and its flavor and aroma are as pungent and voluptuous as a really great Camembert. It's dreamy with a glass of tawny port, a bunch of green grapes, and an unassuming sourdough. Find it at Rainbow Market, Good Life Grocery, and Cheese Plus as well as at the Cowgirl Creamery stand in the Ferry Building.