The beautiful streamlined Tamagnini slicer occupying prime real estate in Zuppa's open kitchen looks as if it could be the star of an industrial design exhibit at SFMOMA, but it's not just for show: It's reputed to create the best and truest "cold cuts." (The special flywheel action doesn't heat up the preserved meats.) Put the Tamagnini to the test and order the grandioso assortment of afettati (cured meats), nearly translucent slices of best-quality prosciutto, Milanese salami, speck, coppa, and mortadella studded with pistachios, neatly draped on a big wooden cutting board. (You can also order a single meat, or choose three.) The fatty, salty, smoky meats are a lovely way to start a meal, or they could do as a light repast on their own.