Thank Jehovah for this new, crisply decorated spot in the Jewish Community Center, which fills a serious gap in San Francisco's culinary life. It's not quite the Carnegie, or even Canter's, but it's definitely the best in the city: respectable pastrami, corned beef, and brisket (in three sandwich sizes: nosher, fresser, and super-fresser), as well as other sandwich options (roast beef, corned tongue, tuna), well-selected smoked fish, and such haimish delights as potato latkes, blintzes, matzo brei, kasha varnishkes, and noodle kugel. Beloved local restaurateur and author Joyce Goldstein has contributed recipes for some of the most toothsome offerings, including chopped chicken liver, sweet and sour stuffed cabbage (from her grandmother Rae's recipe), and veal goulash on egg noodles.