The goofy tropical cocktail, a Happy Hour subgenre pioneered by Trader Vic Bergeron and maintained by the Tonga Room, Trad'r Sam's, and other Polynesian outposts, gets an elegant makeover at Ponzu, a sensuously tactile pan-Asian eatery in the Serrano Hotel. The Godzilla, for instance — a towering concoction of mango-infused vodka, Midori, sake, and three tropical fruit juices — is a cutting-edge cry from the Scorpions of yore. A sweet 'n' savory combination of citrus vodka, yuzu juice, and pickled ginger known as the Yuzu, shaken and served in a very hip cobalt-bottomed martini glass, is another suave keeper of the tiki-torch flame. Or try the Pink Pagoda, or the Tuk-Tuk, or the Bruce Lychee (house-infused lychee sake with Zen green tea liqueur and Absolut Citron). The nightly "AtoZen Hour" from 4:30 to 7 (and all night on Sunday and Monday) features drink specials and 50-cent ngau yuk mai (Peking-style meatball), so drop by early.